How To Prune Roses

Pruning roses can be very confusing. The class of rose and the time of year it blooms influence the type and amount of pruning. General pruning principles apply to all roses, but there are differences between classes. The closer one gets to species roses the less severe the pruning. Hybrid teas have the distinction of requiring the most severe pruning for optimum bloom and plant health.

Pruning roses is primarily done to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood; increase air circulation; keep the shrub from becoming a tangled mess; shape the plant; and encourage the growth of flowering wood.

The majority of pruning is done in the spring – I’ve found that to be the most successful. Many rose growers suggest waiting until the forsythias start to bloom as a good signal for the pruning season to begin.

The goal of spring pruning is to produce an open centered plant. This allows air and light to penetrate more easily. This routine maintenance helps prevent rose diseases and results in healthier, stronger plants. It’s definitely worth the effort!

Basic pruning fundamentals that apply to all roses include:

- Use clean, sharp pruners.

- Cut at a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above outward-facing bud. The cut should slant away from the bud.

- Entirely remove all dead or dying canes. These can be identified as canes/branches that are shriveled, dark brown, or black in color.

- After making cuts, it is suggested to seal the ends of the cuts to prevent the entry of cane borers. White glue works well.

- Remove all thin, weak canes that are smaller than a pencil in diameter.

- If roses are grafted and there is sucker growth, remove it. The best way is to dig down to the root where the sucker is originating and tear it off where it emerges.